Color Damage that Cannot be UnDone!

 

Are You Over-Processing Your Hair with Color?

I cannot straighten hair that's been colored at home or over-processed.

         An (unnamed) franchise salon in Frisco is selling memberships to their clients to keep their chairs full.  They also sell their "professional" color to clients to take home and apply for convenience.  The woman in the photo above stated that she is going in every 2 weeks for her root new growth color. At such frequent intervals, it is impossible to avoid overlapping which eventually leads to Over Processed hair.  That means that the hair is damaged!!  Hair is dry and brittle.  All the hair around her face is even worse.  

She has not been trained all the factors in how to apply correctly at home, where, and what not to do.  Furthermore, the salon franchise claims their formula is ammonia free.  Well, it is impossible to open the cuticle enough to get the large sized color molecules into the cortex where it must go in order to permanently color your hair without some type of similar chemical.  It is misleading and may not be safe with other chemical services or color.

The variation in healthy vs over-processed hair will not present itself until after a straightening is attempted due to the potential of healthy hair losing up to half a level of color.  I have never heard of a salon coloring new growth on two week intervals.  

Do NOT color your hair at home and avoid memberships.  It is recommended to have roots colored no sooner than 5 or 6 weeks.  This salon above is not only doing a disservice to the client, but responsible for damaging her hair.

Have you ever stood in line behind that one lady with light or golden roots, but black ends?  Well, she is coloring her own hair.  The black area is over-processed and the light area isn't "taking" the color because it is resistant and the wrong formular, timing, and application.

Go to a salon, Ladies, and don't look for bargains, coupons, or discounts!

Smoothing Vs Straightening

 Keratin   &   Brazilian Blowout

vs

Japanese Permanent Hair Straightening

"Keratin Smoothing Treatment" and the "Brazilian Blowout" are both temporary smoothing treatments.   

• How long do the effects last?    

• 1 to 12 weeks of gradually decreasing smooth benefits depending upon the texture of the hair.     Soft, fine hair strands benefit the most.  Mediterranean, Asian, or Eastern Indian hair tends to last no more than one or two shampoos.  This is not typically beneficial when the service runs between $150 to $300 or more.  

• Touch-ups are actually a complete new service with the same gradual texture returning as before.

• Will it straighten my hair? 
• Probably not unless your hair is fine with light wave pattern.
• Medium to Coarse hair is usually not affected by this service at all.
• It is a Smoother, not a Straightener.             

This service is ideal for highlighted, bleached, or lightly textured hair.  It is not a committing service and curls, waves, frizz do return within days or weeks.  Hair is easier to style.   12 weeks is manufacturer recommended expectation for the benefits of the service to last, but dependent upon individual hair care routines.

Japanese Permanent Hair Straightening / ReBonding 

is truly PERMANENT.  

• How long do the effects last?

• Treated hair is permanently straight.  It can be styled into waves, volume, curls with styling tools, but the hair will revert back to straight hair upon getting wet.  Texture NEVER returns to straightened hair unless curls are permed into it.

• New growth will need to be straightened from 4 to 24 months later, depending upon hair texture, to maintain the look.  In the meantime, new growth can be flat ironed around the face and part line to maintain the straight style.  Hair grows at a rate of .5 inches per month, so only 6 inches of new growth will be visible after a year.

• The price starts at $300 and goes up from there based upon how much hair you have.  $600 is average.  $1,000 is not uncommon.

This service is ideal for healthy, long, thick, frizzy, strong waves, or tightly curled hair.

BOTH services can cause serious damage to the hair if performed improperly.  It is important that price shopping, coupons, bargains, or discounts are not a factor when choosing your Japanese Permanent Straightening Stylist as hair damage cannot be undone.  It can take years to "grow out" damaged hair.  Experience, skill level, and service knowledge are critical with the success of all chemical services.

972.388.6279 to book and appointment

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Pregnancy and Permanent Straightening

 

Pregnancy and Permanent Hair Straightening

I have actually had chemists and scientists with Masters and PhD's ask me this question after they are sitting in my chair for their straightening.  No hairstylist can legally answer that question as it is considered by the State of Texas as, "practicing medicine without a license."  You should always ask your doctor.  They know the answer off the top of their head.  They have responded to that concern for innumerable excited parent's-to-be.  I am glad that you asked before you made your appointment.  The following information will save time and ensure your doctor knows what service and chemicals you are referring to.

Active Ingredient:  Ammonium Thioglycolate. 

(Chemically breaks the disulfide bonds in order to be re-arranged later with the flat iron.)  It is not applied within 1/2" of the skin but does makes brief contact with the scalp during the 7-minute thorough rinse.  An odor of ammonia is experienced and inhaled during the application and processing of the first solution, but not enough to have ever involved OSHA regulations.  No odor beyond that except usual scents from conditioners applied.

 

The neutralizer: A low-level hydrogen peroxide solution -about 1.5% (which re-bonds the sulfides making the altered texture permanent) That info will help your doctor advise you. Let me know if you'd like me to send a .pdf file of the Material Safety Data Sheets, or MSDS info of the exact products I use for your doctor to review. 

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Clarifying the Fuzzy and Tangled Information in the Search for Smooth Shiny Locks & Carefree Hair

about Michelle Moore & this Blog

Expert Japanese Permanent Hair Straightening Specialist

My introduction to Japanese Permanent Hair Straightening was in 2004 when my niece asked me to perform the service for her two friends.  I did the service at my home for the 12- and 13-year-old girls, Taylor and Morgan.  The results were not only life transforming for the girls, but addictive to me!  Although the new service was very intensive and required meticulous and precise steps, it kept my mind busy and me on my toes. This is not a service for the lax or faint of heart.  

History of Thermal Reconditioning procedure is relatively simple.  Although the active ingredient, Ammonium Thioglycolate, had been used in the cosmetic industry to add or soften texture since the late 19th to mid 20th centuries, respectfully, it was, then, newly being used in a potentially disastrous, but highly effective technique developed in Japan by Liscio in 1996.  Later, the "Yuko System" was invented by Ms. Yuko Yamashita with a subsequent U.S. Patent in the year 2000 being issued.  These ingredients have been used well over a century in the salon industry .  It is only the technique and reformulation of the strength of the product that is new.  

For me, filling my appointment book with typical cut and color clients was a bit of a drag.  I don't have the hip and entertaining personality that most hairstylists in Dallas do.   I am more of a dry, nuts-and-bolts type that gets business done.  I was lacking the flash-n-dash of the styling industry with larger-than-life egos and fancy, but fun fashion sense.  No trendy tattoos, or cool hair do's for me.   I really preferred to be in the background working and thinking hard.

I am a sculptor and artist, first and foremost.  I love sculpting realistic, but expressive human form that speak for me.  Foundation, structure, texture, and shape are my stomping grounds.  The smallest detail can make or break the image.   Being an artist, I am hypersensitive to criticism which, in the salon, becomes imperative to my professional performance that I convey product knowledge and earn the confidence of my client.  Trust is critical to me being able to focus and deliver.  I take my results, reputation, profession, and license very seriously.   An ecstatic client is the le point d'equilibre ideal of my work.

I have heard many stylists either pull false information right out of thin air or they simply have no idea what they are talking about, not even taking the time to educate themselves.  (So many are afraid to just say they don't know the answer.  There is nothing wrong with being unsure, but fibbing, confabulation, and random regurgitation of internet information risks losing client confidence and disastrous hair.)  Likewise, the amount of misinformation published on the internet by writers, companies, and more is very disturbing to me.  I will link to and point out some of these through my blog to illustrate the gross confusion.  It is time that the public is pointed in the right direction with valid & dependable information.

 My reason for this blog is that as of 2021, I have seen an overwhelming influx of client confusion and misinformation from stylists, websites, writers, and even manufacturers.  I invite you to follow me as I take the uncomfortable position to point out and prove these facts and fallacies.  At least, I hope the big brands correct their misinformation for the sake of their reputations, salon industry, and the profession, itself.  How can any company or stylist ask for your hard-earned money if they aren't even committed to doing their own due diligence for their own futures?   I feel that a client puts a lot on the line, being their hair, their image, their money, and their time in the chair.  We owe it to ourselves and our clients to be educated, experienced, committed to excellence, and thorough in our trade.

I will tackle brands such as  OLAPLEX, online magazines such as myhairdoctor.com, and much more.  Get ready as I dissect and destroy.  Yes, I said that!  You, my dear pretty, will no longer be at the mercy of the "hair misinformation mafia.   It is no wonder that clients are confused.  

In well trained hands, Japanese Permanent Hair Straightening, also known as ReBonding in Europe and Asia or Thermal Reconditioning in America is safe and transformative.  It is known by many trade names, brand names, and colloquialisms.  Separately, and wholly different, are Smoothing Treatments which are Temporary.  Performed properly they are safe and have valuable applications for suitable clients.

Either Smoothing Treatments or Japanese Permanent Hair Straightening services by inexperienced stylists can be damaging and devastating.  The results can take years to grow out and have measureless impact for such an unfortunate client.

Relaxers and Permanent Relaxing are whole other creatures.   Relaxers use lye. a.k.a. Sodium Hydroxide (think Liquid Drano).   Permanent Relaxers are much gentler ammonium hydroxide (muriatic acid - cleans concrete driveways) without the ironing or straightening step.  You can see there is a lot to know before choosing your stylist and service.  hint: avoid any service with the word, "Relax" unless you know exactly what you are getting into.

I love informed clients, but too many are at a complete loss to make informed decisions, which is apparent from the conflicting questions they often ask me during consultations.  Questions such as asking me if I use the "ammonia free"  (impossible as all ammonium thioglycolate has ammonia) or "formaldehyde free"  (no permanent straighteners have formaldehyde) brands for permanent hair straightening comes straight from online "professionals" that have no clue nor have done any research into Japanese Permanent Hair Straightening.  These topics will be explained in depth later in my blog.  I hope to end a lot of confusion and misinformation as we move forward.

My next entry will clarify and simplify all the confusing terms, brands, systems, facts, and lingo into very easy to remember information.  I have specialized in Permanent Japanese Hair Straightening for 19 years now and want to clear and counter the clutter of confusion between you and the service you are looking for.  Until my next entry, take care of that hair!